Water softeners · valve repair

Fleck 5600SXT seal and spacer kit replacement

The Fleck 5600SXT is one of the most common softener control valves in North American homes. When it starts leaking to drain, running water during service, or acting strangely between cycles, the usual culprit is a worn seal and spacer stack — and sometimes the piston that rides inside it. Here is how to recognize the symptoms, buy the right parts, and decide whether the rebuild is a homeowner job or a call to a water-treatment pro.

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Bottom line Constant trickle to the drain line, hard water bleeding through, or a valve that won’t hold position usually means the seals and spacers are worn. Replace the seal and spacer kit together, inspect the piston while you are in there, and match parts to your valve’s flow type (downflow vs upflow) and piston style before ordering. If you are not comfortable depressurizing and opening the valve, have a water-treatment pro do it.

Symptoms of worn seals and spacers

SymptomWhat it usually meansRule out first
Water runs to the drain all the time, even in serviceSeals leaking past the pistonA cycle that is simply still running — check the display
Hard water at the tap shortly after regenerationRaw water bypassing internally past worn sealsThe bypass valve partly open; low salt; resin exhausted — see is my softener working?
Brine tank overfills or salt water at the tapSeals, injector, or a brine valve problemBrine float and safety valve — see brine float replacement
Valve stalls, grinds, or the motor strainsDry or swollen seals, scaled pistonPower, motor, and the drive gear
Drips from the top of the valve near the pistonWorn end-plug seal or piston rod sealLoose fittings at the inlet and outlet

Before you buy parts

Rebuild steps (overview)

  1. Put the system in bypass and unplug the controller.
  2. Relieve pressure by manually stepping the valve into backwash for a moment, then back to service, or open a softened tap downstream of the bypass.
  3. Remove the timer/powerhead per the manual, noting how the drive and piston rod connect.
  4. Remove the end plug and piston, then pull the seals and spacers out in order. A seal and spacer puller tool helps; take a photo of the stack orientation.
  5. Clean the valve bore gently with a soft brush and water. Do not scratch the bore.
  6. Install the new stack in the same order, lightly lubricated with food-grade silicone, pushing each piece fully home.
  7. Inspect the piston for scale, scoring, or pitting. Replace it if it is rough; a damaged piston will chew up new seals.
  8. Reassemble, return to service slowly, then run a manual regeneration and watch every cycle step for leaks and normal drain flow.

While the valve is open, it is a good time to clean the injector and screen and check the drain line flow control. If brine draw is weak after the rebuild, the injector is the next suspect.

When to call a pro

Getting help

For valve rebuilds and diagnosis, start with a licensed water-treatment pro or licensed plumber. R.E. Merrill & Associates has handled industrial and municipal pumps and fluid systems since 1987 — contact R.E. Merrill & Associates with general water-treatment and system questions.

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