Well pumps · how-to

Pressure tank precharge: how to check and set it

A well pressure tank holds a cushion of air behind a diaphragm or bladder. That air pressure — the precharge — decides how much water the tank can deliver between pump starts. When precharge is wrong, the pump short-cycles, pressure swings get choppy, and the pump and switch wear out early. Checking it takes a tire gauge and about twenty minutes.

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Bottom line With the pump off and the water pressure drained to zero, the tank’s air precharge should be about 2 psi below the pressure switch cut-in — about 38 psi for a 40/60 switch, about 28 psi for a 30/50 switch — unless your tank or pump maker says otherwise. If water comes out of the air valve, the diaphragm has failed and the tank needs replacing; adding air will not fix it.
Safety first Turn off the pump at its breaker before you start, and leave it off until the precharge is set. Never add air above the tank’s rated maximum, and do not work on a tank that is rusted through or leaking at the seams.

Signs the precharge is off

What you need

How to check and set precharge

  1. Turn off the pump at the breaker.
  2. Drain the system to zero. Open the drain valve on the tank tee or a nearby faucet until water stops and the system gauge reads 0 psi. Precharge readings taken with water pressure in the tank are meaningless.
  3. Find the air valve. It is a tire-style Schrader valve, usually on top of the tank under a plastic cap.
  4. Test for water first. Briefly press the valve core. Air only is good. Water or a wet spray means the diaphragm or bladder has failed — stop here and plan a tank replacement.
  5. Measure the precharge with the tire gauge.
  6. Adjust: add air to raise it, or press the valve core to bleed it down, until it reads about 2 psi below cut-in (38 psi for 40/60, 28 psi for 30/50).
  7. Close the drain, restore power, and watch a full cycle. The pump should start near cut-in and stop near cut-out, and running a faucet should give a noticeably longer stretch before the pump comes back on.
  8. Recheck in a few weeks. If the precharge keeps dropping, the air valve or the diaphragm is leaking.

Common precharge targets

Pressure switchCut-inTypical precharge (water at 0 psi)
20/4020 psiAbout 18 psi
30/5030 psiAbout 28 psi
40/6040 psiAbout 38 psi
Constant-pressure system (for example Grundfos SQE with a CU 301-class controller)Set pointFollow the pump and controller manual — it is set relative to the controller set point, not a switch

Tanks often ship pre-charged for a 40/60 switch. Amtrol’s Well-X-Trol listing, for example, says the tank comes pre-pressurized at 38 psi and should be adjusted to 2 psi below cut-in for other settings. If you change your switch settings, reset the precharge to match the new cut-in.

Waterlogged tank vs low precharge

Low precharge is fixed with air. A waterlogged tank — a failed diaphragm or bladder, or an old air-over-water tank that has lost its air — cannot hold a charge and needs replacing. If the tank holds air for a day and then loses it again with no leak at the valve, assume the diaphragm is leaking. A larger tank lengthens pump run times, which is easier on the motor; sizing depends on pump flow and household demand, so see sizing by GPM and total head and ask your well contractor.

When to call a pro

Getting help

For tank replacement, electrical work, and well service, use a licensed plumber or licensed well contractor. If the pump itself is wearing out from years of short-cycling, R.E. Merrill & Associates is a Grundfos dealer — we can talk through SQ and SQE options with you and your contractor. Contact R.E. Merrill & Associates.

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